Islamicate textiles : Fashion, fabric, and ritual / Faegheh Shirazi.

Format:

Book

Author/Creator:

Shirazi, Faegheh, author.

Language:

English

Subjects (All):

Fashion.

Textile fabrics.

Islamic countries.

Physical Description:

1 online resource (209 pages)

Edition:

1st ed.

Distribution:

London : Bloomsbury Publishing, 2023.

Place of Publication:

London : Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2023.

System Details:

Mode of access: World Wide Web.

text file HTML

Summary:

Textiles and clothing are interwoven with Islamic culture. In Islamicate Textiles, readers are taken on a journey from Central Asia to Tanzania to uncover the central roles that textiles play within Muslim-majority communities. This thematically arranged book sheds light on the traditions, rituals and religious practices of these regions, and the ways in which each one incorporates materials and clothing. Drawing on examples including Iranian lion carpets and Arabic keffiyeh, Faegheh Shirazi frames these textiles and totemic items as important cultural signifiers that, together, form a dynamic and fascinating material culture. Like a developing language, this culture expands, bends and develops to suit the needs of new generations and groups across the world. The political significance of Islamicate textiles is also explored: Faegheh Shirazi's writing reveals the fraught relationship between the East - with its sought-after materials and much-valued textiles - and the European countries that purchased and repurposed these goods, and lays bare the historical and contemporary connections between textiles, colonialism, immigration and economics. Dr Shirazi also discusses gender and how textiles and clothing are intimately linked with sexuality and gender identity.

Contents:

Cover

Halftitle page

Frontispiece

Title page

Copyright page

Dedication

CONTENTS

ILLUSTRATIONS

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

INTRODUCTION

Description of the project

Material culture: History and function

Trauma, activism, and economic benefit

Preservation of national heritage

Audience and readership

CHAPTER 1 TEXTILES AND SYMBOLS: A MÉLANGE OF CULTURAL SIGNIFIERS

Kanga: Cloth with A Message

Lion of Persia: From pre-Islamic to contemporary Iran

Felt and fabrics under domination: Central Asia

Ram's horn: Central Asia and Iran

CHAPTER 2 TALISMANIC TEXTILES: GENDER, STATUS, AND THE SUPERNATURAL

Protecting fiber and livelihood: The Ladakh

Blessed looms, blessed fibers

Sacred colors: Red, white, and light blue

Beyond the loom

Amulets: Protection against the unseen

Inscribed talismanic shirts

Gendered looms

Gendered looms: Iran

CHAPTER 3 THE POLITICIZATION OF TEXTILES: COLONIALISM TO THE PRESENT

India and cotton: Rejecting colonial rule

United we stand: India's Muslim weavers

West African wax cloth

Calico: The forbidden Indian cotton

Indian cloth in Southeast Asia

Keffiyeh: From functional to symbolic

The effect of Russian colonization on Central Asian textiles

Tajikstan: Textiles and national branding

Soviet symbols on woven carpets

CHAPTER 4 REFUGEES AND DISPLACED PERSONS: TEXTILE SIGNATURES

The Siddis of India

Afghan refugee women: Embroidered lives

Weaving and war: Carpets depicting a nation under siege

Iraqi refugees: Textile arts of the past

Syrian and Iraqi refugees: Embroidered quilts and the charuga

Syrian refugees: The Ana Collection

Weaving timeless symbols: War's impact on non-Muslim communities

CHAPTER 5 TEXTILES AND DEATH RITUALS INISLAMICATE SOCIETIES

The burial garment for Muslims: The kafan.

Piecing together the past: Tiraz and halaqa

Tomb covers for the Prophet Muhammed: Kiswa

Tomb covers: Signifiers of status

Indian and South Asian tomb covers

Egyptian funeral tents: The art of Khayamiya

CONCLUSION

GLOSSARY

BIBLIOGRAPHY

INDEX.

Notes:

Includes bibliographical references and index.

ISBN:

9781350291294

1350291293

9781350291256

1350291250

9781350291249

1350291242

OCLC:

1372397637