Andamarcan textiles : an elite Inca weaving tradition from Peru found on the ancient lands of Haciendas Sinsicapa (San Ignacio) and Tulpo / Joseph H. Fabish and Alan A. Colville.

Format:

Book

Author/Creator:

Fabish, Joseph H., author.

Colville, Alan A., author.

Language:

English

Subjects (All):

Textile industry--Peru--Andamarca (Lucanas)--History--To 1500.

Textile industry.

Textile fabrics, Ancient--Peru--Andamarca (Lucanas)--History--To 1500.

Textile fabrics, Ancient.

Weaving--Peru--Andamarca (Lucanas)--History--To 1500.

Weaving.

Andamarca (Lucanas, Peru)--Social life and customs.

Andamarca (Lucanas, Peru).

Andamarca (Lucanas, Peru)--Antiquities.

Antiquities.

Manners and customs.

Peru--Andamarca (Lucanas).

Genre:

History.

Physical Description:

ii, 361 pages : illustrations, maps, portraits, charts, photographs ; 28 cm

Place of Publication:

[Claremont, California] : Huamachuco Textile Press, [2021]

Summary:

"Distinct from all textiles in South America, with brilliant colors, varied motifs and patterns, and fine weaving, the textiles woven in and around the ancient lands of Andamarca located in the Huamachuco region of northern Peru represent an unbroken elite weaving tradition directly descended from the Incas.This remote area of the Andean highlands was designated by the Incas as a royal elite weaving community. Miraculously, its weaving traditions survived through the Spanish Colonial period to the present. Indeed, waistbands still woven today and referred to locally as "sara" belts are identical in pattern and colors found in a weaving code for a waist or head band described in a 16th Century Spanish Chronicle written by Martin de Murúa. Our interpretation is that this was made for the sole use of the Inca Queen, the Coya, and/or closely related princesses.Using ethnographic data collected through interviews with the indigenous population, blankets, waistbands, and to a lesser extent other cultural and ritualistic objects, are described and analyzed. A detailed, novel, and rigorous symmetry analysis is used to identify characteristics, patterns, evolution, references, style, motifs, and age." -- From back cover.

Contents:

Part I: Huamachuco

Recollections

A glimpse of daily life around the Pueblos

A brief history of Peru related to Andamarcan textiles

Daily dress and other textiles from the Pueblos

Concluding remarks

Part II: Martin de murua's Cara Chumbi Diadem of the Inca Queen and royal robes of state of the Inca Empire

Introduction

The Murua Chronicle

The Coya and Inca ruler's participation during important events

The Coya(s)

The Inca calendar

Motifs in elite Inca garments and Andamarcan textiles

Cara textiles and motifs

The complexity of industry under the Incas

De Murua's ninth chapter: "Del Taje y Vestido que Traian Ias Nustas"

The definition of Chumbi during the sixteenth century

The motif, colors, and design of the Cara Chumbi

Part III: The blankets: The history and evolution of twentieth century Andamarcan Mantles

Blankets during the 1920s

Blankets during the 1930s

Blankets during the 1940s

Pictorial blankets during the 1940s

Punto Cruz blankets during the 1940s

Blankets during the 1950s

Huamachuco tapestry during the 1950s and thereafter

Blankets during the 1960s

Blankets during the 1970s

Blankets during the 1980s

Agrarian land reform and the Sendero Luminoso

Weavers during the 1980s

Problems evident in modern Andamarcan blankets

Quengo en Clavel and Carita motifs during the 1980s

Blankets during the 1990s

Blankets from 2000 through 2006

Part IV: Symmetry analysis of Andamarcan blankets and waistbands

Symmetry applied to color variation in Andamarcan blankets

Symmetry, patterns and evolution of Andamarcan waistbands from Inca times to the present

Literature cited.

Notes:

Includes bibliographical references and index.

ISBN:

9780578714059

0578714051

OCLC:

1237718626