Creating the Perfect Form : How to Interpret and Display Historic Dress / Janet Wood.

Format:

Book

Author/Creator:

Wood, Janet (Costume conservator), author.

Language:

English

Subjects (All):

Costume mounting (Display technique).

Dressmaking--Pattern design.

Dressmaking.

Vintage clothing.

Physical Description:

1 online resource (193 pages)

Edition:

First edition.

Place of Publication:

London, England : Bloomsbury Visual Arts, [2024]

Summary:

How can the cut of a 19th century gown control its shape? Can you re-create a historic profile from a contemporary mannequin? How can paintings help you analyse historic silhouettes and the corsets and petticoats worn underneath? Conservation and historic dress display specialist Janet Wood will help you answer all these questions. You'll learn how historic garments can be safely handled and shown to best effect, with insight into the characteristic features of each piece and how to translate them from the garment to a display support. Concentrating on Western women's wear from 1750-1950, and with over 250 colour images, plus drawings and charts, you'll learn how to interpret an individual garment's display needs and create safe, appropriate display forms.

Contents:

Cover

CONTENTS

Foreword

Acknowledgements

Introduction

1 Assessing the Condition of a Garment

Condition

2 Date

Paintings

Cartoons

Fashion plates

Photographs

Newspapers, magazines and other literary sources

Books

Technical developments and dressmaking techniques

Fabrics

Stitching

Alterations

Media

Summary

3 Garment Cut and Its Relationship to Underwear

Research system

Corset and petticoat timeline 1750-1950

Eighteenth century

1800-1820

1820-1830

1830-1840

1840-1850

1850-1860

1860-1870

1870-1890

1870-1880

1880-1890

1890-1900

1900-1910

1910-1920

1920s

1930s

1940s

1950s

4 Storyboards and Silhouettes

How to use storyboards to date a garment

Silhouette timeline

How to relate the construction of a garment to the timeline silhouettes

5 Measurements

Measuring

Width measurements on the body

Description of the horizontal body measurements

Length measurements on the body

Description of the vertical body measurements

The importance of the relationships between garment measurements

Comparing garment measurements to a body, mannequin or bust form

Using a measurement chart

Tools for measuring

Tape measures and their uses

Measuring historic garments

Tips for accurate measuring

6 Selecting and Preparing a Mannequin or Bust Form

Guidelines

Bust form or mannequin

Preparing a bust form or mannequin

Tools for padding mannequins and bust forms

Applying polyester wadding

Bust form

Mannequin

Needles

Using a measurement chart and a padding diagram

Step-by-step process for customizing a bust form

Top covers

7 Patterns and Toiles

The straight grain

Locating the straight grain position on historic garments.

Tools for taking a pattern from a garment

Three methods for creating patterns for toiles

Making a pattern for a toile

'Join the dots' method

'Draping' method

Tissue paper templates

Constructing the toile

8 Petticoats, Arms and Finishing Touches

Base petticoat

Straight base petticoat method

A-line base petticoat

Net petticoats

New Universal petticoat

New Universal petticoat method

Replica hoop petticoats

Eighteenth-century wide hoop or pannier petticoat

Top petticoats

Sleeve supports: Arms

Summary and finishing touches

Conclusion

Appendix

Glossary

Garment Measuring Chart

Padding Diagram

Basic Arm Patterns and Adaptations

Adaptation for a Bent Arm

Puffs and Rolls

Credits for Figure 4.2: Storyboard 1800 to 1820

Credits for Figure 4.3: Storyboard 1870 to 1880

Bibliography

Index.

Notes:

Description based on publisher supplied metadata and other sources.

Description based on print version record.

Includes bibliographical references and index.

ISBN:

9781350328631

1350328634

9781350328624

1350328626

OCLC:

1426864390