Fashioning identity : status ambivalence in contemporary fashion / Maria Mackinney-Valentin.

Format:

Book

Author/Creator:

Mackinney-Valentin, Maria, author.

Series:

Dress and fashion research.

Dress and Fashion Research

Language:

English

Subjects (All):

Fashion--Forecasting.

Fashion.

Clothing trade--Forecasting.

Clothing trade.

Identity (Psychology).

Physical Description:

1 online resource (203 pages) : illustrations, photographs.

Place of Publication:

London, England : Bloomsbury Academic, 2017.

Summary:

"We dress to communicate who we are, or who we would like others to think we are, telling seductive fashion narratives through our adornment. Yet, today, fashion has been democratized through high-low collaborations, social media and real-time fashion mediation, which has complicated the basic dynamic of identity displays, creating tension between personal statements and social performances. Fashioning Identity explores how this tension is performed through fashion production and consumption by examining a diverse series of case studies, from fashion icons in their nineties and the paradoxical rebellion in 'normcore', to soccer Jerseys in Kenya and subcultural heavy metal band T-shirts in Europe. Through these cases, the role of time, gender, age memory, novelty, copying, the body and resistance are considered within the context of the contemporary fashion scene. Offering a fresh approach to the subject by readdressing Fred Davis' seminal concept of 'identity ambivalence' in Fashion, Culture and Identity (1992), Mackinney-Valentin argues that we are in an epoch of 'status ambivalence', in which fashioning one's own identity has become increasingly complicated."-- Provided by publisher.

Contents:

Intro

Half Title

Series Information

Title Page

Contents

Illustrations

Preface

Acknowledgments

1 Introduction: Status Ambivalence and Fashion Flows

Politics of appearance

Dressing the part

Sartorial dialectic of identity

Fashion flows

Vertical flow

Horizontal flow

Upward flow

Scattered flow

Fashioning identity

Chapter outlines

2 Yesterday's Tomorrow: Fashion and Time

The ambiguous now

Between dowdy and hideous

Style revivals

Old fashion

Forever after

3 Perfectly Wrong

Taxonomy of age

Corporeal patina

Logic of wrong

Senior moment

Staged ageing

Age ambiguity

Conspicuous poverty

Radical permanence

4 Copy Chic and the Ambivalent Original

Modes of copying

Fashion IPR

'Tis the season

The Chinatown tote

Copy chic?

5 Sartorial Shrugs and Other Fashion Understatements

Sartorial shrugs

Inconspicuous consumption

Fashionable displays of the ordinary

Deliberate lagging

Staged casualness

The fashion nun

Biological capital

Fashioned bodies

Raw beauty

Lazy chic

Identity assemblage

6 Not So Fast Fashion: the New Perseverance

The new speed of fashion?

Gradual change

Spot on

Forever new

Beyond saturation?

Fashionable implications

7 The Devil's Playground: Fashion and Subcultural Identity

Metal visual culture

The T-shirt

Fashion and subculture

Subcultural persistence

The band T-shirt

Copenhellsters vs. Copenhipsters

Mass-niche

Multigenerational subcultures

Humor and inverted snobbery

Next step for fashioning subcultural identity

8 Trans-global Narratives

"B" is for ball

Soccer history

Cultural exchange

World dress

The soccer jersey as fashion

Fashioning goals

"Welcome to our club"

Transnational fandom

Individualization.

Cultural ambivalence

9 Fashioning Zeitgeist

Fashion as a mirror

Low-calorie realism

Warp and weft

The great outdoors

Blue collar chic

Gender and sexuality

Is there a "right" zeitgeist?

Afterword

References

Index

Copyright Page.

Notes:

Includes bibliographical references and index.

Description based on print version record.

ISBN:

9781474249119

1474249116

9781474249126

1474249124

OCLC:

965543470