Ocean surface waves : their physics and prediction / Stanislaw R. Massel, Institute of Oceanology of the Polish Academy of Sciences Sopot, Poland.

Format:

Book

Author/Creator:

Massel, Stanislaw R.

Series:

Advanced series on ocean engineering ; v. 36.

Advanced series on ocean engineering ; v. 36

Language:

English

Subjects (All):

Ocean waves.

Physical Description:

1 online resource (xxi, 667 pages) : illustrations (some color).

Edition:

2nd ed.

Place of Publication:

New Jersey : World Scientific, [2013]

Language Note:

English

Summary:

The book is an extended and updated edition of the book published in 1996 under the same title (World Scientific, ISBN 9810216866). It contains a very comprehensive and extensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, earthquakes and possible landslides and asteroids impacts. The basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of the various wave parameters and extended application in ocean and coastal engineering, are discussed from the stochastic point of view.All chapters were completely rewritten and supplemented with m

Contents:

Preface to the First Edition; Preface to the Second Edition; Contents; 1. Introduction; 1.1 Waves in the Ocean and their Significance; 1.2 Basic Assumptions on Seawater and Wave Motion; 1.2.1 Continuous fluid and water particle concept; 1.2.2 Properties of seawater and its motion; 1.3 Methods of Description of Random Waves; 1.3.1 A brief orientation; 1.3.2 Basic definitions and concepts of time series analysis; 1.3.3 Fundamentals of spectral description of ocean waves; 1.3.3.1 Deterministic description of wave train; 1.3.3.2 Stochastic description of wave train

1.3.3.3 Wavelet representation of wave signal1.3.3.4 The Hilbert Transform representation of wave signals; 2. Interaction of Wind and Ocean Waves; 2.1 Introduction; 2.2 Airflow over Sea Surface; 2.2.1 Atmospheric boundary layer above water; 2.2.2 Similarity laws for drag coefficient CD; 2.2.3 Mathematical models of the air flow above waves; 2.3 Similarity Laws for Wind-induced Waves; 2.4 Wave Energy Balance in Spectral Form; 2.5 Generation of Waves by Wind; 2.5.1 Basic results of the Phillips-Miles model; 2.5.2 Resonance type model in water of finite depth

2.5.3 Wind-current coupling in gravity-capillary wave generation model3. Spectral Properties of Ocean Waves; 3.1 Introduction; 3.2 Frequency Spectra of Ocean Waves; 3.2.1 Spectral moments and spectral width; 3.2.2 Saturation range of the spectrum; 3.2.2.1 Phillips' constant and energy loss by wave breaking; 3.2.2.2 Zaslavskii and Zakharov' representation; 3.2.2.3 Toba's representation; 3.2.2.4 Finite water depth; 3.2.2.5 Influence of surface drift; 3.2.3 Typical frequency spectra; 3.2.3.1 The Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum; 3.2.3.2 The JONSWAP spectrum and its modifications

3.2.3.3 The Wallops spectrum3.2.3.4 The Krylov spectrum; 3.2.3.5 The Davidan spectrum; 3.2.3.6 Multipeak spectra; 3.2.3.7 The TMA spectrum; 3.2.4 Higher order spectra; 3.3 Dispersion Relation for Ocean Waves; 3.4 Directional Spectral Functions; 3.4.1 Introduction; 3.4.2 The cosine-power models; 3.4.3 The von Mises formula; 3.4.4 The hyperbolic type model; 3.4.5 The double peak model; 4. Statistical Properties of Ocean Waves; 4.1 Introduction; 4.2 Surface Displacement; 4.2.1 Probability distribution of surface displacement; 4.2.2 Distribution of nonlinear surface displacement

4.2.3 Extreme surface displacement4.2.4 Probability distribution of surface displacement in finite water depth; 4.3 Surface Slopes; 4.3.1 Governing relationships and definitions; 4.3.2 Influence of the directional spreading on surface waves slopes; 4.4 Wave Height; 4.4.1 Probability distribution of wave height for a narrow-band spectrum; 4.4.2 Influence of wave nonlinearity on wave height distribution; 4.4.2.1 Modification of the Rayleigh distribution; 4.4.2.2 Crest-to-trough wave height distribution; 4.4.3 Probability distribution of large wave heights

4.4.4 Probability distribution of extreme wave heights

Notes:

Description based upon print version of record.

Includes bibliographical references and indexes.

ISBN:

9781299462847

1299462847

9789814460125

9814460125

OCLC:

840495607