Shaping femininity : foundation garments, the body and women in early modern England / Sarah A. Bendall.

Format:

Book

Author/Creator:

Bendall, Sarah A., author.

Contributor:

Edward Potts Cheyney Memorial Fund.

Language:

English

Subjects (All):

Foundation garments--England--History.

Foundation garments.

Human body--Social aspects--England--History.

Human body.

Women--Physiology--Philosophy.

Women.

Femininity (Philosophy).

Human body--Social aspects.

Women--Physiology.

History.

England.

Genre:

History.

Physical Description:

viii, 338 pages : illustrations (some color), maps ; 26 cm

Place of Publication:

London ; New York : Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2022.

Summary:

"Utilizing an array of both well known and rarely seen sources, Shaping Femininity explores how 16th and 17th-century foundation garments shaped the dressed female body in early modern England and consequently how enduring notions of western femininity were established"-- Provided by publisher.

Contents:

Machine generated contents note: 1. The foundations of the body: Foundation garments and the early modern female silhouette

Women's structural fashions before the mid-sixteenth century

The sculptural body: the Elizabethan and Jacobean silhouette

The softer body: the superficial relaxation of the Caroline silhouette

Ambiguous bodies: underwear, outerwear and the Restoration silhouette

Conclusion

2. The artificial body: Courtiers, gentlewomen and disputed visions of femininity, 1560

1650

Shaping the aristocratic body

Critiques of fashion and the artificial body

Anti-court sentiments and disputed visions of femininity

3. The socially mobile body: Consumption of foundation garments by middling and common women, 1560

Evidence of consumption of foundation garments by the middling and common sorts

Affordability and modes of consumption

Foundation garments and upward social mobility

4. The body makers: Commissioning and making foundation garments in early modern England

The body-making and farthingale-making trades

Commissioning and buying foundation garments: interactions between consumers and artisans

Making and observation: the evolution in design and tacit skills of body-makers

Making and experimentation: recovering the artisanal knowledge of farthingale-makers

5. The everyday body: Assumptions, tropes and the lived experience

The life cycle, disease and deformity

Bodies: movement and everyday life

Farthingales: walking, sitting and everyday life

Gendered perceptions of size and space

6. The sexual body: Eroticism, reproduction and control

Foundation garments, eroticism and sexual desire

Sexual temptation and feminine deception

Pregnancy and concealment

Regulating sexual female bodies

7. The respectable body: Rising consumption and the changing sensibilities of late seventeenth- and early eighteenth-century England

Changing consumption practices of the late seventeenth century

From bodies to stays: changing terminology and female morality

The busk and changing romantic sensibilities

Rolls and hoops: skirting the boundaries of politeness and gentility

Conclusion.

Notes:

Includes bibliographical references and index.

Local Notes:

Acquired for the Penn Libraries with assistance from the Edward Potts Cheyney Memorial Fund.

Other Format:

Online version: Bendall, Sarah A. Shaping femininity

ISBN:

9781350164109

1350164100

9781350164116

1350164119

OCLC:

1225192408

Publisher Number:

99989314848