Handbook of formulating dermal applications : a definitive practical guide / edited by Nava Dayan.

Format:

Book

Contributor:

Dayan, Nava, editor.

Language:

English

Subjects (All):

Skin--Care and hygiene--Handbooks, manuals, etc.

Skin.

Dermatologic agents.

Physical Description:

1 online resource (701 pages) : color illustrations

Edition:

1st ed.

Place of Publication:

Hoboken, New Jersey : John Wiley & Sons, Incorporated ; Beverly, Massachusetts : Scrivener Publishing, [2017]

Summary:

The conceptualization and formulation of skin care products intended for topical use is a multifaceted and evolving area of science. Formulators must account for myriad skin types, emerging opportunities for product development as well as a very temperamental retail market. Originally published as "Apply Topically" in 2013 (now out of print), this reissued detailed and comprehensive handbook offers a practical approach to the formulation chemist's day-to-day endeavors by: * Addressing the innumerable challenges facing the chemist both in design and at the bench, such as formulating with/for specific properties; formulation, processing and production techniques; sensory and elegancy; stability and preservation; color cosmetics; sunscreens; * Offering valuable guidance to troubleshooting issues regarding ingredient selection and interaction, regulatory concerns that must be addressed early in development, and the extrapolation of preservative systems, fragrances, stability and texture aids; * Exploring the advantages and limitations of raw materials; * Addressing scale-up and pilot production process and concerns; * Testing and Measurements Methods. The 22 chapters written by industry experts such as Roger L. McMullen, Paul Thau, Hemi Nae, Ada Polla, Howard Epstein, Joseph Albanese, Mark Chandler, Steve Herman, Gary Kelm, Patricia Aikens, and Sam Shefer, along with many others, give the reader and user the ultimate handbook on topical product development.

Contents:

Cover

Title Page

Copyright Page

Contents

Preface

SECTION I: Preliminary Considerations and Selection of Raw Materials

CHAPTER 1 Pre-formulation Design and Considerations

Introduction

Project Goals and Formulation Design

Selecting The Right Ingredients for Your Design

Pre-formulation Considerations-Vehicle Examples

Choosing a Surfactant

Selecting a Suitable Emulsifier

Other Pre-formulation Considerations

Botanicals

Choice of Preservation Systems

Manufacturing Considerations

Reading a Technical Product Sheet

Regulatory Considerations

Safety of the Formulation

Summary

References

CHAPTER 2 The Use of Thickeners in Topically Applied Formulations

Rheology

Classifying Thickeners

Advantages and Disadvantages of Natural Thickeners

Inorganic Thickeners

Formulating With Thickeners

a) Choosing the right thickener

b) Viscosity

c) Clarity

d) pH effect

e) Dispersing performance

f) Heat vs. cold processing

Further Example Formulations

CHAPTER 3 The Incorporation of Delivery Systems into Topical Formulations: A Case Study on the Use of Salicylic Acid for Acne Treatment

Abstract

Background

Motivation For Encapsulaton Of Salicylic Acid

Formulations With Sa And Encapsulation Technologies

Summary/Conclusion And Future Perspectives

CHAPTER 4 Formulating Skin Care Products with Silicones: Approaches and Strategies

Introduction to Silicones

Major Categories of Silicones and Their Properties

Silicone Applications and Benefits in Personal Care Formulations

Moisturizers (Hand and Body Lotions)

Facial Care (Anti-aging Products)

Color Cosmetics

Sun Protection

Shampoos

Hair Conditioners

Skin Cleansers and Body Washes

Antiperspirants and Deodorants.

Formulation Considerations

Conventional Emulsions (oil-in-water)

Inverse Emulsions (water-in-oil)

Aqueous Solution Formulations

Anhydrous Formulations

Silicone Processing and Equipment Cleaning

Formulary

CATEGORY: Moisturizers

CATEGORY: Face Care Formulations

CATEGORY: Color Cosmetics

CATEGORY: Sunscreens

CATEGORY: Antiperspirants

CATEGORY: Cleansers and Shampoos

CATEGORY: Hair Conditioners

CHAPTER 5 The Use of Corn-derived Ingredients in Personal Care Applications

Zea Mays (Corn) Starch

Modified Starches

Hydrolyzed Corn Starches

Additional Applications for Corn-derived Ingredients in Topical Formulations

SECTION II: Formulation, Processing and Production Techniques

CHAPTER 6 Emulsions and their Characterization by Texture Profile Analysis

Basic Principles of Emulsion Technology

Emulsions

Emulsion formation

Emulsifiers

Typical emulsion compositions

Phenomena Involved in Emulsion Instability

Improving stability of emulsions

Mechanisms of Emulsion Stabilization by Emulsifiers

Electrostatic/charge stabilization (repulsive electrostatic forces)

Steric stabilization

Stabilization by lamellar gel phases

Measurement of Emulsion Stability

Formulation pH measurements

Rheological techniques

Optical microscopy

Liquid conductivity measurements

Size distribution

Zeta potential

Definitions of Key Phenomena in Emulsion Technology

Sensorial and Textural Properties of Emulsions

Texture Profile Analysis (TPA)

Determination of Textural Attributes from Texture Profile Analysis

Analysis of Commercial Lotions and Creams by Texture Profile Analysis

Analysis of O/W Emulsions by Texture Profile Analysis

Concluding Remarks

Acknowledgements

References.

CHAPTER 7 High Internal Phase Water-in-oil Emulsions

High Internal Phase Water-in-oil Emulsions (HIPEs)

Stabilization in HIPEs

Topical Delivery Systems Based Upon HIPEs

Future Prospects for HIPEs

CHAPTER 8 Manufacturing Topical Formulations: Scale-up from Lab to Pilot Production

Overview of Key Scale-up Considerations

Process Design

General Considerations

Documentation and Record Keeping

Drug Products

Cosmetic Products

SOPs

Technical Reports

Equipment and Facilities Logs

Production and Labeling Records

Laboratory Records

Other Records

Change Control

Record Retention

Electronic Records

Scale-up Principles

When to Scale-up?

Prior Body of Knowledge

Theoretical and Empirical Concepts

Mixing

Mixing Scale-up: Dimensional Analysis

Laminar vs. Turbulent Conditions

Example: Scaling up a Gel

Equal Power per Unit Volume

Equal Tip Speed

Mixing Time

Newtonian vs. Non-Newtonian Fluids

Particle Size Reduction

Non-geometrically Similar Systems

Summary of Scale-up Principles

Quality by Design Principles

QbD Overview

Target Product Profile

Critical Quality Attributes

Critical Process Parameters

Risk Assessment

Process Mapping

Anchor Speed

Disperser Speed

Mix Temperature

Vacuum Pressure

Transfer Pressure

A More Detailed, Alternate Risk Assessment Methods: FMECA

Experimental Design

Design of Experiments

Re-Assessment of Risk

Design Space

Control Strategies

Laboratory and Testing Considerations

Process Equipment: Pilot Scale

Materials of Construction

Cleaning Issues

Mixing Equipment

Impeller Types

Vessels

Baffles

Temperature: Effects on Formulation

Vacuum and Pressure Considerations.

Power Source: Pneumatic or Electrical

Cleaning

Material Charge-in, Charge-out, and Transfer

Formulation Specific Requirements

Gels

Gel-Emulsions

Solutions

Topical Patches

Filling &amp

In-process Analytical Equipment

Facilities and Engineering Issues

Process Segregation

Utilities

Environmental Monitoring and Controls

Room Surfaces

Safety

Raw Material Considerations

Sourcing

CHAPTER 9 Foam: A Unique Delivery Vehicle for Topically Applied Formulations

Overview of the Market: Current Foam Technologies

The Rosetta Stone Of Foam

Water-containing Foams

Cream Foam (Emollient Foam)

Betamethasone Valerate Emollient Foam

Nanoemulsion Foam

Hydroethanolic Foam

Potent Solvent Foam

Water-free Foams

Ointment Foam - Petrolatum-based Foam

Oil Foam

Hydrophilic Waterless Foam

Saccharide Foam

How to Formulate Foam Products

1. PFF production

2. Packaging and pressurization

Methods of Evaluation of Foam Products

Chemical Analysis

Physical Foam Properties

SECTION III: Testing and Measurements Methods

CHAPTER 10 Using Experimental Design to Optimize Formulations

What is Experimental Design?

Factorial Designs

Mixture Designs

Mixture/Amount Design

Exactly What Is Synergy?

The Cornell Approach

How To Get Started

Identify the objective(s)

Design the Experiment

Design Replicates

Make the batches and measure the key responses

Enter the data

Analyze the data and interpret the results looking for possible synergies

Example

JMP Leverage Plots

Additional Thoughts

Conclusions

CHAPTER 11 Rheological Properties of Topical Formulations

Rheological Measurements

Flow Curves.

Dynamic Properties - Viscoelasticity

Instrumentation

One Point measurements

Extended range rheometers

Rheological Additives

Rheological Additives for Water-based Systems

Synthetic Rheological Additives

Synthetic Silica and Silicates

Blends

Rheological Additives for Solvent Based Systems

Miscellaneous Rheological Additives

Formulation of Topical Products

CHAPTER 12 Viscosity Measurement for Topically Applied Formulations

Definitions and Units of Viscosity

a) Absolute or dynamic viscosity (typically just "viscosity")

b) Kinematic viscosity

Importance of Shear Rate

Definitions: Dependence of Viscosity on Shear Rate

The Stages in Product Development for the Consideration of Viscosity Evaluation

Instrumentation for Measurement

Reading and Understanding Viscosity Specifications

Measurement Key Considerations

Acknowledgments

CHAPTER 13 Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) Spectroscopic Imaging Analysis of Topical Formulations

Experimental Methods

Imaging Formulations: Examples

SECTION IV: Sensory and Elegancy

CHAPTER 14 Creating Appealing Topically Applied Formulations: Linking Physical Aspects to Marketing Psychology

Luxury Goods Business

Consumer Perception-Multiple Factors At Play

Matching the Product to the Consumer

Sustained Success

Research That Changed Everything

The Challenge of Matching Sensorial Attributes

Selecting Ingredients for a Novel Approach

Real Security

Combining Elements of Development

Involving Scale-up and Manufacturing

Time Scale

CHAPTER 15 The Use of Fragrance in Topically Applied Formulations

Why we use fragrance

Why products may develop unpleasant odor.

Fragrance creation and duplication.

Notes:

Includes bibliographical references and index.

Description based on print version record.

ISBN:

9781119364245

1119364248

9781119364221

1119364221

9781119364238

111936423X

OCLC:

959373508