Tailored for freedom : the artistic dress around 1900 in fashion, art, and society / edited by Ina Ewers-Schultz and Magdalena Holzhey ; with essays by Friederike Berger, Christian Brandstätter, Burcu Dogramaci, Ina Ewers-Schultz, Isa Fleischmann-Heck, Inga Ganzer, Juliane Hahn, Christiane Heiser, Magdalena Holzhey, Antje Neumann, Patricia Ober, Thorsten Scheer, and Karin Thönnissen.

Format:

Book

Contributor:

Ewers-Schultz, Ina, editor, writer of supplementary textual content.

Holzhey, Magdalena, editor, writer of supplementary textual content.

Berger, Friederike, writer of supplementary textual content.

Brandstätter, Christian, writer of supplementary textual content.

Dogramaci, Burcu, writer of supplementary textual content.

Fleischmann-Heck, Isa, writer of supplementary textual content.

Ganzer, Inga, 1976- writer of supplementary textual content.

Hahn, Juliane, writer of supplementary textual content.

Heiser, Christiane, 1970- writer of supplementary textual content.

Neumann, Antje, writer of supplementary textual content.

Ober, Patricia, writer of supplementary textual content.

Scheer, Thorsten, writer of supplementary textual content.

Thönnissen, Karin, writer of supplementary textual content.

Krefelder Kunstmuseen (Germany), host institution.

Language:

English

Subjects (All):

Women's clothing--Europe--History--20th century--Exhibitions.

Women's clothing.

Dresses--Europe--History--20th century--Exhibitions.

Dresses.

Fashion and art--History--20th century--Exhibitions.

Fashion and art.

Fashion--Social aspects--Europe--History--20th century--Exhibitions.

Fashion.

Fashion in art--Exhibitions.

Fashion in art.

Fashion--Social aspects.

History.

Europe.

Genre:

Exhibition catalogs.

History.

Physical Description:

288 pages : illustrations (some color), portraits ; 29 cm

Place of Publication:

Krefeld : Kunstmuseen Krefeld ; München : Hirmer, [2018]

Summary:

Als Ausdruck von Individualität und Persönlichkeit verstanden, wurde Mode um 1900 zum Synonym für eine körperliche wie gesellschaftliche Emanzipation der Frau und avancierte zum Gegenstand künstlerischen Interesses. In Kleiderentwürfen bekannter Künstler wie Heinrich Vogeler, Henry van de Velde, Josef Hoffmann oder Sonia Delaunay offenbaren sich zugleich eine neue Ästhetik und Haltung zur Rolle der Frau. Die Einheit von Kunst und Leben, nach der die Reformbewegungen um 1900 strebten, inspirierte Künstler, auch mit dem Kleid der Frau gestalterisch zu experimentieren. Das Künstlerkleid als Teil der Idee des Gesamtkunstwerks reflektiert das Bild der Frau in seinen Facetten, so als dekoratives Objekt, als Künstlerin oder emanzipierte Unternehmerin. Der Band begeistert durch die Schönheit der gezeigten Kleider und Kunstwerke, die er brisant und unter neuen interdisziplinären Perspektiven in die Umbruchsituation am beginnenden 20. Jahrhundert einordnet - von der deutschen Reformbewegung und der Wiener Werkstätte zur englischen Arts and Crafts Bewegung und der Entstehung der Haute Couture in Paris. Exhibition: Kaiser Wilhelm Museum, Krefeld, Germany (12.10.2018 - 24.02.2019).

Contents:

Foreword / Katia Baudin

Introduction: "There are fears of some sort of revolution" / Ina Ewers-Schultz and Magdalena Holzhey

The dress as a work of art.

The dress as a work of art, beauty as a weapon, and the concept of the Gesamtkunstwerk: on a new understanding of art around 1900 / Ina Ewers-Schultz

Closely tied: the Krefeld Museum director Friedrich Deneken and his European network / Inga Ganzer

"The fairies have strewn flowers along the way": the textile designer and Gesamtkünstler Henry van de Velde and his Weimar circle / Antje Neumann

"The highest intelligence in the freest body!": modern dance as a symbiosis of body and costume / Ina Ewers-Schultz

New shapes and decors.

Making an appearance: the fashion frenzy and "new style" in women's clothing around 1900 / Isa Fleischmann-Heck

"The artistic elevation of women's dress": Krefeld 1900 and its consequences / Magdalena Holzhey "A miracle how preciously the people here understand their work in silk": Johan Thorn Prikker as a textile artist: from Batik to Krefeld artists' silk / Christiane Heiser

Kimono & Co.: the influence of Japan as well as historical and regional garments on fashion around 1900 / Isa Fleischmann-Heck

Ambivalent gender roles.

"Since not all women, even if they have taste, are able to invent suitable ornaments": women and their clothes between decoration and emancipation / Magdalena Holzhey

"The essential thing is the individual adaptation to the wearer": Anna Muthesius's Das Eigenkleid der Frau / Ina Ewers-Schultz

"Antineutral clothing for men": the artistic reform of men's wear / Ina Ewers-Schultz

The body under the clothes: nude photography of women in the context of clothing reform / Patricia Ober

Staging and communication.

Posing for a new world: artistic dresses and how they were communicated / Burcu Dogramaci The Wiener Werkstätte and the fashion reform / Christian Brandstätter

"The art of clothing oneself must be popularized": the artistic reform dress as an ideal, an aesthetic, and consumer culture / Friederike Berger

The Omega Workshops: painting in space / Karin Thönnissen

Looking back and ahead.

"Deeds not words": on the political iconography of women's dress / Thorsten Scheer

Skirt and rib: bodies in the gaze / Julian Hahn.

Notes:

Published to accompany an exhibition held at Kunstmuseen Krefeld, Kaiser Wilhelm Museum, Krefeld, Germany, 12th October 2018-24th February 2019.

Includes bibliographical references (pages 258-273).

ISBN:

9783777431123

3777431125

OCLC:

1043363451

Publisher Number:

9783777431123

Bestellnummer: 3112