Cloth and clothing in early Anglo-Saxon England, AD 450-700 / Penelope Walton Rogers.

Format:

Book

Author/Creator:

Walton Rogers, Penelope.

Contributor:

Council for British Archaeology.

Series:

Research report (Council for British Archaeology) ; no. 145.

CBA research report ; no. 145

Language:

English

Subjects (All):

Textile fabrics, Ancient--England.

Textile fabrics, Ancient.

Anglo-Saxons--Clothing--England.

Anglo-Saxons.

Archaeology, Medieval--England.

Archaeology, Medieval.

Clothing and dress--England--History--Medieval, 500-1500.

Clothing and dress.

History.

England.

Physical Description:

xx, 289 pages : illustrations (some color), maps (some color) ; 25 cm.

Place of Publication:

York : Council for British Archaeology, 2007.

Summary:

How do you reconstruct dress for a place and time when there are no pictorial sources and no surviving garments? This volume draws together a range of archaeological and historical material to show how clothing was made in the Early Anglo-Saxon period. It reveals cloth production as an integral part of most women's lives and, by means of a new protocol for the interpretation of costume in burials, it uncovers regional, social and gender differences in clothing and its accessories.

Contents:

Previous studies 2

The historical framework 3

A note on chronology and colour-coding 8

2 Textile production in the villages 9

Sheep and wool 10

Flax and hemp 14

Wool preparation 15

Flax processing 17

Spinning 21

Winding and warping 26

Weaving 28

Band-weaving, braiding and cord-making 35

Bleaching 36

Dyeing 37

Finishing 38

Laundering 39

Cutting and stitching 39

Textiles and the village economy 41

3 The textiles from the cemeteries 49

The database 49

Bias and preservation 50

Fibres and their identification 60

Dyes and dye identification 62

Weave structures and spin 64

The main fabric types 67

Patterning 73

Specialist textiles 77

Imported silks 86

Borders and other structural details 86

Tablet weaves 89

Braids and cords 98

Needlework 99

Animal skins 103

Regional distribution 107

4 Costume accessories 111

Dating Anglo-Saxon graves 111

Anglo-Saxon metalwork 112

Brooches 113

Sleeve-clasps 122

Buckles and other belt fittings 123

Pins 126

Beads, pendants and other necklace accessories 127

Bangles, finger rings and ear-rings 132

Aglets and other metal tags 134

Bags, chatelaines and other suspended items 134

Artefacts in men's graves 135

Knives 138

5 Reconstructing clothing from the Anglo-Saxon burial 139

The costume survey 139

Paired shoulder brooches and the peplos 144

Single brooches at the shoulder 152

The sleeved inner gown 154

The veil and other coverings for the head and neck 157

Cloaks, shawls and capes 167

The history of cloaks, mantles, capes and hoods 173

Costume ensembles in the Migration period 177

Graves without brooches or pins 180

Women after the peplos: the Later Phase 180

The women of east Kent 189

Fashions in bead strings 193

Atypical graves 196

Men's tunics and trousers 199

Men's cloaks 206

Men's headwear 209

Fighting gear 210

The warrior jacket 210

Clothing children 217

Hair styles 218

Belts 219

Shoes 221

Leg and foot coverings 222

Pouches and purses 223

Soft-furnishings and beds 224

Textiles with weapons, knives and tools 227

Carrying the knife 227

Textile wrappers 228

6 Cloth, clothing and Anglo-Saxon society 229

The early immigrants 229

Romano-British survival 230

Regional variety in the Migration period 232

The transfer of textile technology 234

Status and textiles 235

Imported textiles 236

Textiles in 7th-century royal burials 238

Between men and women 240

Age matters 241

Women and marriage 242

Changing costume in a changing society 244

Interpreting costume in the burial ritual 245

The long view 247

Notes for archaeologists 248

Costume and textile crafts in a new archaeology 250.

Notes:

Includes bibliographical references (pages 253-273) and index.

ISBN:

1902771540

9781902771540

OCLC:

67873792