Survey of historic costume / Phyllis G. Tortora and Keith Eubank.

Format:

Book

Author/Creator:

Tortora, Phyllis G.

Contributor:

Eubank, Keith.

Edward Potts Cheyney Memorial Fund.

Language:

English

Subjects (All):

Clothing and dress--History.

Clothing and dress.

History.

Physical Description:

xxi, 585 pages : illustrations (some color) ; 28 cm

Edition:

Fourth edition.

Place of Publication:

New York : Fairchild Publications, 2005.

Summary:

The bestselling Survey of Historic Costume covers the history of Western dress from the ancient world to the years following the turn of the millennium. The costume of each period is viewed within its historical, cultural, and economic context. Sources utilized in the study of costume are described and evaluated. Perfect for anyone interested in historic costume, fashion, textiles, drama, and design, this beautifully illustrated book is full of interesting facts and commentary.

Contents:

The Origins of Dress 1

Limitations to the Design of Garments 1

Common Themes in Costume History Across Time 2

Functions of Dress in the Social Context 2

Clothing as a Means of Social Communication 4

The Historical Context 4

Cross-Cultural Influences 5

Geography, the Natural Environment, and Ecology 5

Clothing as an Art Form 5

The Phenomenon of Fashion in Western Dress 6

Sources of Evidence for the Study of Historic Costume 7

Part 1 The Ancient World c. 3000 B.C.-A.D. 300 11

Table 1.1 Civilizations of the Ancient World 12

Chapter 2 The Ancient Middle East c. 3500-600 B.C. 15

Historical Background: Mesopotamia 16

Historical Background: Egypt 16

Differences in the Development of Egyptian and Mesopotamian Civilizations 17

Mesopotamian Civilization 18

Social Structure 18

The Family 18

Fabrics and Cloth Production 18

Sources of Evidence About Sumerian Costume 19

Mesopotamian Costume/Sumerian Costume for Men and Women: c. 3500-2500 B.C. 19

Costume Components for Men and Women 19

Mesopotamian Costume/Later Sumerians and Babylonians: c. 2500-1000 B.C. 20

Costume Components for Men/Military Dress: c. 2500-1000 B.C. 20

Costume Components for Men/Civilian Dress: c. 2500-1000 B.C. 20

Costume Components for Women: c. 2500-1000 B.C. 21

Mesopotamian Costume/Later Babylonians and the Assyrians: c. 1000-600 B.C. 21

The Tunic 22

Costume Components for Men: c. 1000-600 B.C. 22

Costume Components for Men/Military Dress 23

Costume Components for Women: c. 1000-600 B.C. 23

Mesopotamian Costume for Children: c. 3500-600 B.C. 24

Egyptian Civilization 24

Social Structure 24

Sources of Evidence for the Study of Egyptian Costume 25

Egyptian Art 25

The Contents of Tombs 25

Egyptian Decorative Motifs 26

Contributions of Artisans to Costume 26

Textile Production and Technology 26

Jewelry 27

Egyptian Costume: c. 3000-300 B.C. 27

Costume Terminology 27

Egyptian Costume for Men: c. 3000-300 B.C. 27

Costume Components for Men 27

Table 2.1 Garments Worn by Egyptian Men and Women During Various Historical Periods 28

Contemporary Comments 2.1 29

Egyptian Costume for Women: 3000-300 B.C. 31

Costume Components for Women 31

Costume Components for Men and Women 32

Egyptian Costume for Children: 3000-300 B.C. 35

Egyptian Costume for Specialized Occupations 35

Military Costume 35

Religious Costume 35

Illustrated Table 2.1 Some of the Headdress Worn in Ancient Egypt 36

Costume for Musicians, Dancers, and Acrobats 38

Themes 38

Visual Summary Table 39

Later Survivals of Mesopotamian and Egyptian Dress 40

Chapter 3 Crete and Greece c. 2900-300 B.C. 43

Minoan and Mycenaean Civilizations 44

Historical Background 44

Social Organization and Material Culture of Minoan and Mycenaean Civilizations 44

Art and Technology of Minoan and Mycenaean Civilizations 45

Minoan Costume for Men and Women: 2900-1150 B.C. 45

Costume Components for Men and Women 45

Minoan Costume for Children: 2900-1150 B.C. 47

Transitions in the Dominant Styles 47

Greek Civilization 47

Historical Background 47

Social Organization of the Greek Civilization 48

Fabrics and Cloth Production 49

Sources of Evidence for the Study of Greek Costume 49

Greek Art 49

Greek Costume for Men and Women: 800-300 B.C. 50

Costume Components for Men and Women 51

Table 3.1 Types of Chitons Worn by Greek Men and Women 51

Illustrated Table 3.1 Examples of Hairstyles and Headdress Worn by Men and Women in Greece 53

Contemporary Comments 3.1 55

Greek Costume for Children: 800-300 B.C. 55

Contemporary Comments 3.2 56

Costume Components for Children 56

Greek Costume for Specialized Occupations or Occasions 57

Wedding Dress 57

Military Costume 58

Theatrical Costume 58

Themes 58

Visual Summary Table 59

Later Survivals of Greek Dress 59

Chapter 4 Etruria and Rome c. 800 B.C.-A.D. 400 63

The Etruscans 64

Historical Background 64

Social Life of the Etruscans 64

Art and Trade of the Etruscans 64

Etruscan Costume for Men and Women: c. 800-200 B.C. 65

Costume Components for Men and Women 65

Etruscan Costume for Children: c. 800-200 B.C. 67

The Romans 67

Historical Background 67

Social Life in the Roman Empire 68

Fabrics and Clothing Production 68

Table 4.1 The Appearance and Significance of Various Types of Togas 69

Sources of Evidence for the Study of Roman Costume 69

Roman Costume for Men and Women 70

The Toga 70

Contemporary Comments 4.1 73

Costume Components for Men: 500 B.C.-A.D. 400 73

Costume Components for Women: 500 B.C.-A.D. 400 74

Costume Components for Men and Women: 500 B.C.-A.D. 400 75

Illustrated Table 4.1 Examples of Hairstyles and Headdress Worn by Men and Women During the Roman Empire 76

Roman Costume for Children: 500 B.C.-A.D. 400 77

Military Costume for Men During the Roman Empire 78

Roman Costume for Special Events 78

The Synthesis 78

Bridal Costume 78

Religious Garb 78

Changes in Costume During the Declining Years of the Roman Empire 79

Differences Between Greek, Etruscan, and Roman Costume 79

Themes in Etruscan and Roman Dress 79

Visual Summary Table 80

Survivals of Etruscan and Roman Dress 80

Part 2 The Middle Ages c. 300-1500 83

Chapter 5 The Early Middle Ages c. 300-1300 87

The Byzantine Period c. 330-1453 88

Historical Background 88

Social Organization in the Byzantine Period 88

Culture, Art, and Technology in the Byzantine Period 88

Byzantine Costume for Men: A.D. 300-1450 90

Costume Components for Men 90

Byzantine Costume for Women: A.D. 300-1453 92

Costume Components for Women 92

Byzantine Costume for Men and Women: A.D. 300-1450 93

Costume Components for Men and Women 93

Western Europe from the Fall of the Roman Empire to A.D. 900 94

Historical Background: The Fall of the Roman Empire 94

Historical Background: The Merovingian and Carolingian Dynasties 94

Sources of Evidence About Costume 95

Costume in Western Europe: Fall of the Roman Empire to A.D. 900 95

The Production of Cloth 95

Costume for Men: The Merovingian and Carolingian Dynasties 95

Contemporary Comments 5.1 96

Costume Components for Men: The Merovingian Period 96

Costume Components for Men: The Carolingian Period 96

Costume for Women: The Merovingian and Carolingian Dynasties 96

Costume Components for Women: The Merovingian Period 96

Costume Components for Women: The Carolingian Period 97

Clerical Costume in the Early Middle Ages 97

Dress of Priests 98

Monastic Dress 98

Historical Background: The 10th-13th Centuries 99

The Feudal Monarchies 99

Political Developments in Europe: 900-1300 99

The German Dynasties 99

Anglo-Saxon and Norman Britain 99

The French Kings 101

Factors Related to Developments in Costume 101

The Crusades 101

Medieval Castles and Courts 101

Town Life 101

Fabric Production 101

Art 102

Costume in the 10th and 11th Centuries 102

Costume Components for Men: 10th and 11th Centuries 102

Costume Components for Women: 10th and 11th Centuries 104

Costume for Men and Women: 12th Century 105

Costume Components for Men: 12th Century 105

Costume Components for Women: 12th Century 107

Problems of Costume Terminology in the 13th Century 108

Costume in the 13th Century 108

Costume Components for Men: 13th Century 108

Contemporary Comments 5.2 109

Table 5.1 Old English and French Costume Terms 110

Costume for Women: 13th Century 113

Accessories of Dress for Men and Women: 10th-13th Centuries 114

Military Costume 114

Themes 115

Visual Summary Table 116

Origins, Developments, and Survivals of Byzantine and Early Medieval Styles 117

Chapter 6 The Late Middle Ages c.

1300 - 1500 121

Historical Background 122

Medieval Social Structure 122

The Peasant 122

The Nobility 123

The Bourgeoisie 124

Fabrics and Tailors 124

Sources of Evidence for the Study of Costume 124

Art 124

Contemporary Comments 6.1 125

Documentary Sources 125

Fashion Change Becomes Evident 125

Costume for Men: 14th Century 126

Costume Components for Men: 14th Century 126

Costume for Women: 14th Century 129

Costume Components for Women: 14th Century 129

Costume for Men and Women: 15th Century 131

Costume for Men: 15th Century 131

Contemporary Comments 6.2 132

Costume for Women: 15th Century 134

Costume for Children: 14th and 15th Centuries 136

Mourning Costume for Men and Women 137

Costume for Specialized Occupations 138

Student Dress 138

Illustrated Table 6.1 Evolution and Styles of 15th-Century Headdress for Women 139

Military Dress 140

Illustrated Table 6.2 Late Middle Age Accessories 141

Themes 142

Survivals of Styles from the Late Middle Ages 142

Visual Summary Table 143

Part 3 The Renaissance c. 1400-1600 147

Chapter 7 The Italian Renaissance c. 1400-1600 151

Historical Background 152

The Political Organization in Renaissance Italy 152

Life in Renaissance Italy 152

The Production and Acquisition of Textiles 153

The Cloth Industries in Renaissance Italy 153

The Manufacture and Acquisition of Clothing 153

Cross-Cultural Influences from the Middle East 153

Sources of Evidence About Costume 154

Costume for Men and Women: 1400-1600 154

Costume for Men: 1400-1450 154

Costume for Women: 1400-1450 154

Costume for Men: 1450-1500 154

Contemporary Comments 7.1 156

Costume for Women: 1450-1500 159

Costume for Men and Women: 16th Century 159

Costume for Men: 16th Century 160

Illustrated Table 7.1 Italian Renaissance: Accessories 162

Costume for Women: 16th Century 162

Regional Distinctions in Costume for Men and Women: 15th and 16th Centuries 163

Distinctive Venetian Costume for Women 163

Distinctive Venetian Costume for Men 163

Venetian Dress for Officials 163

Contemporary Comments 7.2 164

Costume for Children During the Italian Renaissance 164

Themes 165

Visual Summary Table 166

Survival of Italian Renaissance Styles 167

Chapter 8 The Northern Renaissance c. 1500 - 1600 169

Historical Background 170

Developments in Germany 170

Developments in Spain 170

Developments in England 171

Developments in France 171

Factors in the Dissemination of Fashion Information 171

Table 8.1 Royal Intermarriages During the 16th Century 172

Cross-Cultural Influences from the Middle East 172

Textiles 172

Changes in Technology 172

Decorative Techniques of the 16th Century 172

Sources of Evidence for the Study of Costume 173

Art 173

Documentary Sources 173

Actual Garments 173

Costume for Men and Women: 16th Century 173

Costume for Men: 1500-1515 174

Costume for Men: 1515-1550 175

Costume for Men: 1550-1600 175

Costume for Women: 16th Century 178

Costume for Women: 1500-1530 179

Contemporary Comments 8.1 180

Costume for Women in Germany: 1530-1575 180

Costume for Women in Other Northern European Countries: 1530-1575 181

Costume Components for Women: 1575-1600 183

Costume Accessories for Men and Women: 16th Century 185

Illustrated Table 8.1 Northern Renaissance: Accessories 186

Costume for Children: 16th Century 187

Themes 188

Visual Summary Table 189

Survivals of 16th Century Dress 190

Part 4 Baroque and Rococo c. 1600-1800 193

The Arts During the Baroque and Rococo Periods 193

Expanding Trade with the Far East 194

The Cotton Trade with India 195

The Industrial Revolution 196

The Consumer Society and the Acceleration of Fashion Change 196

Chapter 9 The Seventeenth Century 1600-1700 199

Historical Background 200

France 200

England 200

Social Life During the 17th Century 201

The French Court 201

England 201

Holland 201

America 202

Some Distinctive Costume Traditions 202

Puritan Costume 202

Spanish Costume 202

Production and Acquisition of Textiles and Clothing 203

Sources of Evidence of Historic Costume 204

Costume for Men: 17th Century 204

Table 9.1 Terms Describing Men's Trouser-Type Garments: 16th Century to 19th Century 205

Costume for Men: 1625-1650 206

Costume for Men: 1650-1680 207

Costume for Men: 1680-1710 208

Contemporary Comments 9.1 209

Costume for Women: 17th Century 210

Costume for Women: 1630-1660 210

Illustrated Table 9.1 9th-17th Centuries Accessories 211

Costume for Women: 1660-1680 213

Costume for Women: 1680-1700 213

Contemporary Comments 9.2 216

Costume for Men and Women: 17th Century 217

Costume for Children: 17th Century 217

Costume Components for Children 219

Themes 220

Survivals of 17th Century Styles 220

Visual Summary Table 221

Chapter 10 The Eighteenth Century 1700-1790 225

Historical Background 226

The Arts 226

Social Life in 18th Century France 226

Social Life of the Affluent in 18th Century England 227

Contemporary Comments 10.1 228

Production and Acquisition of Clothing and Textiles 228

Advances in Textile Technology 228

Home Versus Factory Production of Cloth 228

Clothing Manufacture and Sale 228

Sources of Information About Costume 229

The American Colonies in the 18th Century 229

Urban Clothing Styles 229

Working Class and Rural Dress 229

Some Influences on Costume in the 18th Century 229

Costume for Men: 18th Century 230

Costume for Men: Up to Mid-18th Century 231

Contemporary Comments 10.2 232

Changes in Men's Costume After the Mid-18th Century 233

Costume for Men: After the Mid-18th Century 233

Costume for Women: 18th Century 235

Illustrated Table 10.1 Typical Women's Hairstyles and Headdress in the 18th Century 236

Costume for Women: 1715-1730 237

Costume for Women: 1730-1760 239

Costume for Women: 1760-1790 239

Contemporary Comments 10.3 240

Other Costume Components for Women: The 18th Century 243

Costumes for Active Sports for Men and Women: The 18th Century 244

Costume for Children: The 18th Century 244

First Half of the 18th Century 244

Second Half of the 18th Century 244

Illustrated Table 10.2 18th Century Accessories 245

Themes 248

Survivals of 18th Century Dress 248

Visual Summary Table 249

Part 5 The Nineteenth Century 1800-1900 253

Historical Background 253

France 253

England 253

Italy and Austria 253

The United States 254

Industrialization 255

Cross-Cultural Influences on Fashion 256

Textiles from India 256

Resumption of Trade with Japan 257

Morality and Values in the 19th Century 257

Dress Reform for Women 258

Changes in Clothing for Men 258

The End of an Age 259

Chapter 11 The Directoire Period and the Empire Period 1790-1820 261

Historical Background 262

France: The Revolution and the Directory 262

France: The Empire 264

England 264

The United States 264

The Arts and Costume Styles of the Period 265

The Revolution in Men's Clothes 265

Contemporary Comments 11.1 266

Production and Acquisition of Clothing and Textiles 267

Sources of Information About Costume 267

Costume for Women: Directoire and Empire Periods 267

Costume for Men: Directoire and Empire Periods 270

Illustrated Table 11.1 Typical Women's Hairstyles and Headdress in the Empire Period 271

Illustrated Table 11.2 Empire Period: Accessories 272

Costume for Children: The Empire Period 274

Costume for Girls 274

Costume for Boys 275

Themes 275

Survivals of Empire Style Costume 275

Chapter 12 The Romantic Period 1820-1850 279

Historical Background 280

England 280

France 280

The United States 281

Women's Social Roles and Clothing Styles 281

Manufacture and Acquisition of Clothing and Textiles 282

Sources of Evidence About Costume 282

Costume for Women: The Romantic Period 282

Costume for Women: 1820-1835 282

Costume for Women: 1836-1850 286

Illustrated Table 12.1 Examples of Women's Hairstyles and Headdress: 1820-1850 288

Costume Components for Women: 1820-1850 289

Costume for Men: The Romantic Period 290

Costume for Men: 1820-1840 290

Costume for Men: 1840-1850 291

Costume for Men: 1820-1850 292

Illustrated Table 12.2 Romantic Period: Accessories 294

Costume for Children: The Romantic Period 295

Costume Components for Girls 295

Costume Components for Boys 295

Clothing for Slaves in North America 295

Contemporary Comments 12.1 297

Themes 298

Visual

Summary Table 299

Survivals of Romantic Period Costume Styles 300

Chapter 13 The Crinoline Period 1850-1869 303

Worth and the Paris Couture 304

Historical Background 304

England 304

France 304

The United States 305

Production of Clothing: The Sewing Machine 306

Early Attempts at Dress Reform: The "Bloomer" Costume 307

Gymnastics for Women 307

Contemporary Comments 13.1 308

Sources of Evidence About Costume 308

Costume for Men and Women: The Crinoline Period 309

Costume for Women: 1850-1870 309

Illustrated Table 13.1 Selected Undergarments for Women, Men, and Children from the Second half of the 19th Century 310

Illustrated Table 13.2 Typical Women's Hairstyles and Headdress: 1850-1870 314

Costume for Men: 1850-1870 316

Illustrated Table 13.3 Crinoline Period, 1850-1860: Accessories 317

Costume for Children: The Crinoline Period 320

Costume for Boys and Girls: 1850-1870 321

Costume for Boys: After Age Five or Six 321

Themes 323

Survivals of Crinoline Period Costume Styles 323

Visual Summary Table 324

Chapter 14 The Bustle Period and the Nineties 1870-1900 327

Historical Background: 1870-1890 328

Historical Background: 1890-1900 328

Social Life: 1870-1900 328

Sports for Women 329

The Manufacture and Acquisition of Clothing and Textiles 329

Textile Technology 329

Ready-to-Wear Clothing 329

Merchandising of Ready-to-Wear 330

The Visual Arts and Costume 330

Aesthetic Dress 331

Art Nouveau 331

Sources of Evidence About Costume 332

Costume for Women: The Bustle Period, 1870-1890 332

General Features of Women's Costume: 1870-1890 332

Specific Features of Women's Dress Styles During Different Phases of the Bustle Period 333

Illustrated Table 14.1 Selected Undergarments for Men, Women, and Children: 1870-1900 336

Contemporary Comments 14.1 339

Illustrated Table 14.2 Selected Hats and Hairstyles for Women: 1870-1900 340

Illustrated Table 14.3 Selected Footwear for Women: 1870-1900 342

Costume for Women: The Nineties 343

Costume Components for Women 343

Costume for Men: 1870-1900 347

Illustrated Table 14.4 Bustle Period and Nineties Accessories: 1870-1900 349

Costume for Children: 1870-1900 350

Costume Components for Girls 350

Costume Components for Boys 350

Costume for Boys and Girls 351

Table 14.1 Typical Stages in the Acquisition of Adult Clothing in the Late 19th Century 352

Mourning Costume in the Second Half of the 19th Century 352

Themes 353

Survivals of Bustle and Nineties Costume Styles 353

Visual Summary Table 354

Part 6 The Twentieth Century 1900-1996 357

Art and Costume in the 20th Century 358

New Sources of Evidence for the Study of Costume 359

Chapter 15 The Edwardian Period and World War I 1900-1920 361

Historical Background 362

The United States 362

Great Britain and France at the Turn of the Century 362

World War I 362

The Effect of the War on Fashions 362

Influences on Fashion 363

The French Couture and Paul Poiret 363

Fortuny 363

Contemporary Comments 15.1 364

Oriental Influences on Art and Fashion 365

The Changing Social Roles of American Women 365

The Automobile 365

American High Society 365

The Production and Acquisition of Clothing 366

Sources of Information About Costume 366

Costume for Women: 1900-1920 366

Costume Components for Women: 1900-1908 366

Illustrated Table 15.1 Selected Undergarments for Women, Men, and Children: 1900-1920 368

Costume for Women: 1909-1914 370

Costume for Women: 1914-1918 372

Illustrated Table 15.2 Selected Hairstyles and Hats for Women: 1900-1920 373

Costume for Women: 1918-1920 375

Costume for Men: 1900-1920 375

Illustrated Table 15.3 Selected Examples of Footwear for Women: 1900-1920 376

Illustrated Table 15.4 Edwardian and World War I, 1900-1920: Accessories 380

Costume for Children: 1900-1920 381

Costume for Girls 381

Costume for Boys 382

Costume for Boys and Girls 382

Themes 383

Survivals of Edwardian and World War I Styles 383

Visual Summary Table 384

Chapter 16 The Twenties, Thirties, and World War II 1920-1947 387

Historical Background 388

The Twenties 388

Changes in the Social Life of the Twenties 388

The Thirties 389

World War II 389

Contemporary Comments 16.1 390

Some Influences on Fashions 390

The Movies 390

Royalty and Cafe Society 391

Sports 391

The Automobile 391

Production and Acquisition of Textiles and Clothing 391

Technological Developments Affecting Fashion 391

The French Couture 392

Table 16.1 Designers of the French Couture: 1920-1947 394

Contemporary Comments 16.2 395

American Designers 395

Theatre de la Mode 397

Art Movements and Their Influence on Fashion 398

Art Deco 398

Surrealism 398

Sources of Information About Costume 398

Costume for Women: 1920-1947 399

Costume for Women: 1920-1930 399

Illustrated Table 16.1 Selected Undergarments for Women, Men, and Children: 1920-1947 400

Illustrated Table 16.2 Selected Hairstyles and Hats for Women: 1920-1947 404

Costume for Women: 1930-1947 405

Illustrated Table 16.3 Selected Examples of Footwear for Women: 1920-1947 407

Costume for Women: 1920-1947 409

Illustrated Table 16.4 1920-1947: Accessories 411

Costume for Men: 1920-1947 413

Costume for Children: 1920-1947 420

Costume for Girls 420

Costume for Boys 420

Costume for Boys and Girls 420

Illustrated Table 16.5 Children's Clothing Styles: 1920-1947 421

Costume for the Teenage Market 422

Themes 423

Survivals of Styles of the 1920s and 1930s 423

Visual Summary Table 424

Chapter 17 The New Look: Fashion Conformity Prevails 1947-1960 427

Historical Background 428

International Developments: 1947-1960 428

The United States: 1947-1960 429

Influences on Fashion 430

The Silent Generation Moves to the Suburbs 430

Fashion Influences from the Young 430

The Impact of Television 431

Internationalism 432

Production and Acquisition of Clothing and Textiles 433

The Fabric Revolution 433

The Changing Couture 433

Table 17.1 Influential Paris-Based Designers, 1947-1960 434

The American Mass Market 435

New Centers of Fashion Design 435

Costume for Women: 1947-1960 435

Style Features of the New Look 435

Table 17.2 Some Major American Fashion Designers Who Came to Prominence During World War II and Were Important in the 1950s 436

Costume for Women: 1947-1954 437

Illustrated Table 17.1 Selected Undergarments for Women, Men, and Children: 1947-1960 438

Contemporary Comments 17.1 439

Illustrated Table 17.2 Typical Hats for Women: 1947-1960 444

Signs of Silhouette Changes: 1954-1960 444

Costume for Men: 1947-1960 444

Illustrated Table 17.3 Selected Examples of Popular Footwear for Women: 1947-1960 446

Illustrated Table 17.4 1947 to 1960: Accessories 448

Clothing for Active Sports 450

Costume for Children: 1947-1960 451

Costume for Infants and Preschool Children 451

Costume Components for Girls 451

Illustrated Table 17.5 Children's Clothing Styles: 1947-1960 452

Costume for Boys 452

Costume for Boys and Girls 452

Themes 453

Visual Summary Table 454

Survival of New Look Styles 455

Chapter 18 The Sixties and Seventies: Style Tribes Emerge 1960-1980 457

Historical Background 458

Europe and the Soviet Union 458

The Middle East 458

Africa and the End of Colonialism 458

The Emergence of Japan as an Economic Power 458

The United States 459

The Impact of Social Change on Fashion 461

Style Tribes and Street Styles 461

Some Style Tribes of 1960-1980 462

The Women's Movement 463

The Civil Rights Movement 463

Other Influences in Fashion 464

The White House Influences Styles 464

Political Events 464

Table 18.1 Some Media Influences on Fashion: 1960-1980 464

The Space Age 464

The Fine Arts 465

Ethnic Looks 466

The Changing Fashion Industry 466

Increasing Variety in Fashion Segments 467

Attempts to Curb Fashion Changes 467

Changes in Fashion Design 467

Contemporary Comments 18.1 468

Labeling and Licensing 469

Designers of Men's Clothing 469

Costume for Women: 1960-1980 469

Costume for Women: 1960-1974 469

Table 18.2 Influential Designers in Paris and Other Fashion Centers: 1960-1980 470

Illustrated Table 18.1 Selected Undergarments for Women, Men, and Children: 1960-1980 473

Illustrated

Table 18.2 Typical Hairstyles and Hats for Women: 1960-1980 475

The Introduction of the Midi: 1970-1974 480

Changes in Costume for Women: 1974-1980 481

Illustrated Table 18.3 Selected Examples of Popular Footwear for Women and Men, 1960-1980 482

Illustrated Table 18.4 1960-1980: Accessories 484

Contemporary Comments 18.2 485

Costume for Men: 1960-1980 488

Costume for Children: 1960-1980 492

Infants and Toddlers 492

Preschool and School-Age Children 492

Costume for Girls 492

Illustrated Table 18.5 Children's Clothing Styles: 1960-1980 493

Costume for Boys 494

Costume for Boys and Girls 494

Themes 494

Visual Summary Table 495

Survivals of Styles of 1960-1980 496

Selected Readings 496

Chapter 19 The Eighties and Nineties: Affluence, Information, and a New Millennium 1980-2003 499

Historical Background: International 500

The Cold War Ends 500

Progress Continues Toward European Union 500

War and Peace 500

The Middle East 500

Japanese Economic Influences 501

Historical Background: United States 501

Political and Economic Developments 501

Gore-Bush Presidential Campaign 501

Energy and Environmental Issues 502

The Changing American Family 502

Changes in the Roles of Women 502

The Computer Revolution 503

The New Immigrants 503

AIDS 503

The Fashion Industry Undergoes Changes 504

Postmodernism 504

Elements of the Fashion System 504

Table 19.1 Some Style Tribes and Their Impact on Mainstream Fashion 506

Changes in the Production and Retailing of Apparel 511

Table 19.2 Some Prominent Designers Working in Paris and Other Fashion Centers: 1980-2003 512

Table 19.3 Some American Designers Who Became Prominent in the Period 1980-2003 514

Contemporary Comments 19.1 516

The Fashion Industry in the New Millennium 516

The Origins of Major Fashion Trends of 1980-2003 516

Retro Fashions 516

Various Social Groups Influence Fashion 517

Current Events 518

The Media as a Fashion Influence 519

Table 19.4 Some Media Influences on Fashion: 1980-2003 520

Influences from the Fine Arts 520

Demographic Changes 521

The Trend to Casual Dress 521

Fabrics Old and New 521

Sports 523

Costume Components for Women: 1980-1995 523

Contemporary Comments 19.2 526

Illustrated Table 19.1 Selected Undergarments for Women and Men: 1975-1996 527

Illustrated Table 19.2 Typical Hairstyles and Headcoverings for Women and Men: 1980-2003 532

Costume Components for Women: 1995-2003 533

Illustrated Table 19.3 Selected Examples of Popular Footwear for Women, Men, and Children: 1980-2003 538

Illustrated Table 19.4 Accessories: 1980-2003 539

Costume for Men: 1974-2003 540

Costume Components for Men 540

Costume for Children: 1980-2003 544

Infants and Preschool-Age Children 544

Illustrated Table 19.5 Children's Clothing Styles: 1980-2003 545

School-Aged Children: Trends Affecting Boys and Girls 547

Costume Components for Girls 547

Costume Components for Boys 547

Visual Summary Table 549.

Notes:

Includes bibliographical references.

Local Notes:

Acquired for the Penn Libraries with assistance from the Edward Potts Cheyney Memorial Fund.

ISBN:

1563673452

OCLC:

61322493