Old clothes, new looks : second hand fashion / edited by Alexandra Palmer and Hazel Clark.

Format:

Book

Contributor:

Palmer, Alexandra, 1957-

Clark, Hazel.

Series:

Dress, body, culture 1360-466X

Dress, body, culture, 1360-466X

Language:

English

Subjects (All):

Used clothing industry.

Fashion.

Physical Description:

xvi, 255 pages : illustrations ; 25 cm.

Place of Publication:

Oxford ; New York : Berg, 2005.

Summary:

Recent interest in 'vintage' and second hand clothes by both fashion consumers and designers is only the latest manifestation of a long and complex cultural history of wearing and trading second hand clothes. With its origins in necessity, the passing of clothes between social and economic groups is now a global business, but with roots that are centuries old. To move from one social and cultural situation to another used clothes must be 'transformed' to become of potential value to a new social group. How, when and why this has happened is the subject of this book.

Old Clothes, New Looks presents a three-part focus on the history, the trading culture, and the contemporary refashioning of second hand clothing. Historical perspectives include studies located in Renaissance Florence, early industrial England, colonial Australia, and mid twentieth-century Ireland. The global nature of the second hand trade in clothing is presented through original research from Zambia, India, the Philippines, Hong Kong, and Japan. The reuse of garments as contemporary fashion statements is explored through studies that include neo-mod retro-sixties subculture in Germany, the impact of 'vintage' in the USA on consumers and designers, as well as consideration of its sartorial and cultural challenges, encapsulated by the work of designer XULY.Bet.

This groundbreaking book will be essential reading for all those interested in fashion and dress, material culture, consumption and anthropology, as well as to dealers, collectors and wearers of second hand clothes.

Contents:

Part 1 Historical Perspectives

1 The Florentine Rigattieri: Second Hand Clothing Dealers and the Circulation of Goods in the Renaissance / Carole Collier Frick 13

2 Shifting Currency: the Culture and Economy of the Second Hand Trade in England, c.1600-1850 / Beverly Lemire 29

3 Cast-Offs: Civilization, Charity or Commerce? Aspects of Second Hand Clothing Use in Australia, 1788-1900 / Margot Riley 49

4 Second Hand Silk Kimono Migrating Across Borders / Terry Satsuki Milhaupt 67

5 Parcels from America: American Clothes in Ireland, c.1930-1980 / Hilary O'Kelly 83

Part 2 Trading Cultures

6 Crafting Appearances: The Second Hand Clothing Trade and Dress Practices in Zambia / Karen Tranberg Hansen 103

7 Creative Entrepreneurs: The Recycling of Second Hand Indian Clothing / Lucy Norris 119

8 Ukay-Ukay Chic: Tales of Second Hand Clothing in the Philippine Cordillera / B. Lynne Milgram 135

9 Second Hand Fashion, Culture and Identity in Hong Kong / Hazel Clark 155

Part 3 Contemporary Refashioning

10 Sixties Dress Only! The Consumption of the Past in a Retro Scene / Heike Jenss 177

11 Vintage Whores and Vintage Virgins: Second Hand Fashion in the Twenty-first Century / Alexandra Palmer 197

12 Working the Edge: XULY.Bet's Recycled Clothing / Victoria Rovine 215.

Notes:

Includes bibliographical references (pages 229-249) and index.

ISBN:

1859738524 :

1859738575

OCLC:

56440705