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Against fashion : clothing as art, 1850-1930 / Radu Stern.
LIBRA - Athenaeum of Philadelphia Circulating GT523 .S7413 2004
Available from offsite location
- Format:
- Book
- Author/Creator:
- Stern, Radu, 1951-
- Standardized Title:
- Contre-courant. English
- Language:
- English
- French
- German
- Subjects (All):
- Fashion and art--History--20th century.
- Fashion and art.
- Fashion and art--History--19th century.
- Costume design--History--20th century.
- Costume design.
- Costume design--History--19th century.
- Fashion design--History.
- Costume design--History.
- History.
- Local Subjects:
- Fashion design--History.
- Costume design--History.
- Physical Description:
- 205 pages : illustrations (some color) ; 27 cm
- Place of Publication:
- Cambridge, Mass. : MIT Press, [2004]
- Summary:
- The late nineteenth-century invention of "fashion" as we understand it today inspired avant-garde artists of the period to create an art form to counter commercial fashion. These artists saw clothing not as a symbol of class distinction but as a force for shaping experience -- an opportunity to make things new, to go beyond the traditional boundaries of art. For many artists, therefore, dress design was too important to be left to the fashion designers; they would appropriate clothing as an art form that could break through the traditional boundaries of "pure" art to act directly on life.
- Against Fashion is the history of the modern relationship between artists and this ideal "anti-fashion." Radu Stern traces the development of clothing as art by artists of the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. He discusses contributions to the new art form by various artistic movements of the historical avant-garde, including Art Nouveau, the Werkbund, Cubism, Futurism, Constructivism, and the Bauhaus; he examines the work of such key figures as Henry van de Velde, Gustay Klimt, and Sonia Delaunay. The book includes more than 100 illustrations, many in color, as well as an anthology of essential writings and documents by artists and writers of the period, some of them translated into English for the first time. The artists and works examined display a diversity of styles and ideas, but all share the desire to reject the mercantile logic of commercial fashion and replace it with a utopian "anti-fashion."
- Contents:
- Against Fashion: The Avant-Garde and Clothing
- Fashion and Modernity 2
- Romanticism: From Eccentricity to Artistic Dress 4
- Rational, Artistic, and Aesthetic Dress in England 5
- Henry van de Velde and Germany 11
- Klimt and the Wiener Werkstatte 23
- Futurism and Dress 29
- The Russian Avant-Garde and Dress 45
- Sonia Delaunay 63
- Texts
- The New Dress / Elizabeth Cady Stanton 80
- Dress Reform / Amelia Bloomer 82
- A Lecture on Dress (1868) / E. W. Godwin 83
- Development in Dress / George H. Darwin 96
- Of the Progress of Taste in Dress in Relation to Art Education / Walter Crane 105
- Slaves of Fashion / Oscar Wilde 111
- Woman's Dress / Oscar Wilde 113
- More Radical Ideas upon Dress Reform / Oscar Wilde 115
- The Relation of Dress to Art: A Note in Black and White on Mr Whistler's Lecture / Oscar Wilde 120
- The Individual Dress / Josef Hoffmann 122
- The Artistic Improvement of Women's Clothing / Henry van de Velde 125
- A New Art Principle in Modern Women's Clothing / Henry van de Velde 137
- Artistic Dress and Personalized Dress / Friedrich Deneken 143
- On the Becoming of Fashion / Eduard Josef Wimmer-Wisgrill 148
- Questions of Fashion / Lilly Reich 151
- Male Futurist Dress: A Manifesto / Giacomo Balla 155
- The Antineutral Dress: A Manifesto / Giacomo Balla 157
- Futurist Manifesto of Women's Fashion / Volt (Vincenzo Fani) 160
- The Futurist Manifesto of the Italian Hat / F. T. Marinetti, Francesco Monarchi, Enrico Frampolini, Mino Somenzi 162
- The Aesthetics of Dress: Sunny Fashion, Futurist Fashion / Ernesto Thayaht 164
- Manifesto for the Transformation of Male Clothing / Ernesto Thayaht, Ruggero Michahelles 167
- The Futurist Manifesto of the Italian Tie / Renato di Bosso, Ignazio Scurto 170
- Present-Day Dress
- Production Clothing / Varst (Varvara Stepanova) 172
- Concerning Contemporary Dress / Nadezhda Lamanova 174
- The Russian Fashion / Nadezhda Lamanova 177
- The Constructivist Dress / Aleksandra Exter 178
- The Fortnight Review: The Reformers of Dress / Guillaume Apollinaire 181
- On Her Dress She Has a Body / Blaise Cendrars 182
- The Influence of Painting on Fashion / Sonia Delaunay 183
- Artists and the Future of Fashion / Sonia Delaunay 186.
- Notes:
- Includes bibliographical references (pages 198-201) and index.
- "Originally published as A contre-courant/Gegen den Strich, c1992"--T.p. verso. With updated bibliography.
- Local Notes:
- Athenaeum copy: Dornsife fund bookplate.
- ISBN:
- 0262194937
- OCLC:
- 51477920
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