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Dress codes : meanings and messages in American culture / Ruth P. Rubinstein.
LIBRA GT605 .R835 2001
Available from offsite location
- Format:
- Book
- Author/Creator:
- Rubinstein, Ruth P.
- Language:
- English
- Subjects (All):
- Costume--Social aspects--United States.
- Costume.
- Costume--Social aspects.
- History.
- United States.
- Costume--United States--History.
- Human body--Social aspects--United States.
- Human body.
- Human body--Social aspects.
- Physical Description:
- xvii, 366 pages : illustrations ; 23 cm
- Edition:
- Second edition.
- Place of Publication:
- Boulder, Colo. : Westview Press, 2001.
- Contents:
- 1 Dress in Societal Discourse 3
- The Notion of Public Memory 5
- Clothing Semiotics 7
- Individual Speech 13
- "Publicspeak," 14
- Fashion 14
- 2 Nineteenth-Century Theories of Clothing 19
- The Modesty Theory 20
- The Protection Theory 22
- Modern Protective Garb 25
- The Adornment Theory 25
- Part 2 Characteristics of Modern Social Discourse
- 3 New Institutional Patterns of Discourse 39
- Spirituality and the Denial of the Body 40
- Renaissance Individualism and Economic Success 41
- Modern Rationality 43
- 4 Dressing the Public Self 48
- Sociocultural Background 48
- The Demise of Male Fashion 49
- Goal-Directed Behavior 49
- The Norm of Self-Restraint 51
- Presentation of the Public Self 52
- Stability of Appearance 55
- Stigma Symbols 56
- Clothing Signs in the Public Place 57
- Challenges to Nineteenth- and Twentieth-Century Work Orientation 60
- Challenging the Norm of Self-Restraint 61
- Casual Wear 62
- Part 3 Clothing Signs and Social Imperatives
- 5 The Image of Power 69
- Charismatic Dictatorship 70
- Monarchy 70
- Power in the American Presidency 73
- Origins of the Image of Power 74
- Images of Power in Christian Art 77
- Power and Victimhood 79
- 6 The Image of Authority 83
- Uniforms 83
- Nonuniform Uniforms in the Corporate World 86
- The Executive Role 88
- Origins of the Image of Authority 89
- The Sociocultural Background of Uniforms 91
- 7 Gender Images 103
- Theories of Gender Distinction 103
- Socialization to Gender 104
- Female Gender 110
- Male Gender 122
- 8 Seductive Images 135
- Female Seductive Images 135
- Male Seductive Images 155
- Part 4 Clothing Symbols and Cultural Values
- 9 Wealth and Beauty in the Middle Ages 179
- Wealth 181
- Beauty 186
- The Book of Hours and the Diffusion of the Beauty Ideal 188
- 10 Leisure and Political Hierarchy 192
- Leisure 192
- Political Hierarchy 192
- Court Style, Decorum, and Manners 198
- 11 Commerce and Fashion 202
- Commerce 202
- The Emergence of Fashion 202
- Fashion As an Economic Good 204
- Fashion and the Individual 206
- 12 Beauty As Perfection of Physical Form 208
- The Novel 209
- The Beautiful 212
- The History of Beauty As a Cultural Value 214
- Learning to Recognize Beauty 218
- Beauty Through Surgery and Cosmetics 219
- The Utility of Beauty 223
- 13 The Youth Ideal 227
- Creating a Social Identity 230
- Age Stratification 231
- Sociocultural Background 232
- Mass Marketing 234
- Demographic Changes 235
- Personal Response to Aging 236
- 14 The Health Ideal 239
- Sanitation and Cleanliness 240
- Diet 241
- Utopian Writers 241
- Reducing Risk 241
- Preventing Tuberculosis 242
- Adult Height and Weight Tables 243
- The Well-Child Clinic 245
- Prevention of Illness As the Physician's Domain 245
- The Visual Conjoining of Values 247
- The Suntan 247
- The Lean and Muscular Male Body 248
- Part 5 Publicspeak
- 15 Clothing Tie-Signs 253
- Individuals Who Dissent 254
- Individuals Who Resist Sociocultural Change 257
- Individuals Who Protest an Inferior Identity 262
- 16 Clothing Tie-Symbols 269
- Claiming a Divergent Identity 269
- Trendy Attire 271
- Seeking Self-Definition 280
- Anticipatory Socialization 281
- College Groups 282
- Ethnic Identity 282
- Emulating Sports and Entertainment Celebrities 283
- Imitating a President's Wife 285
- Expressing Political Values and Goals 285
- 17 The Presidency and Contemporary Fashion 294
- The U.S. Presidency and Male Fashion 297
- The U.S. Presidency and Female Fashion 298
- The Reagan Presidency 298
- The Bush Presidency 302
- Historical Perspective 305
- The Clinton Presidency 308
- 1990s Fashion Process 310
- European Fashions 314
- 18 The Personal Self 321
- Legitimacy of an Individuated Self 321
- Continuant Identity 322
- Temporary Identity 323
- Motives for Personal Dress 324
- Alternatives and Ambiguity 335.
- Notes:
- Includes bibliographical references (pages 341-351) and index.
- ISBN:
- 0813367956
- OCLC:
- 45058443
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